Dog. Dry felting technique from wool, master class. Toy dog made of wool, dry felting with your own hands

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Dog. Dry felting technique from wool, master class. Toy dog made of wool, dry felting with your own hands - master class with photo Felting a dog

Felting dog hair in 4 stages

For crafts using the technique of dry and wet felting, wool of various types is used, in particular camel, sheep and even dog wool. In general, felting wool is a rather exciting and interesting process that both adults and children can do. To purchase the necessary material and tools, you will not need a lot of effort and time, since any handicraft store has such devices. In addition, it is worth paying attention to the fact that a special needle is used for felting, and several sizes with different sections and sizes are required for 1 work.

Making felting from dog hair in a washing machine: master class

Felting decorative dogs is quite possible at home, since the process is not complicated, but it will require patience and perseverance. It is worth noting that felting, which uses a washing machine, is now very popular.

This type of felting is recognized as the simplest and easiest and perfect for beginners.

The product will require a dense mold, which will be used for deboning. It is wrapped in wool and placed in a golf course made of nylon fabric.

In the process of felting dog hair in a washing machine, nylon tights are most often used, which should be without arrows or holes

Master Class:

The blank of the future toy part is placed in a pre-prepared nylon bag and sent to the washing machine.
A detergent for washing woolen items is poured into the desired compartment.
The washing mode is set without soaking and without drying.
The temperature should be selected at 40-50 ᵒC.

After the washing is completed, you can take out the finished, felted parts. It is advisable to remove the parts as carefully as possible so as not to damage the integrity. After this, each part is assembled into a single toy.

Wet felting from dog hair for beginners: instructions

Wet felting is a little more complicated than the previous method, but no less popular. In this case, wet felting is carried out from dog hair using gauze and soap solution.

The material is laid out on the surface of the gauze according to a pre-prepared pattern.

To make a soap solution, you need to grind pieces of soap into shavings, preferably a couple of pieces. Next, the mixture is poured with boiling water (2 l). Everything is thoroughly mixed and left for 2 hours until completely thickened. After this, you can begin working with dog hair, the master class of which is very simple and you do not need to attend lengthy felting lessons to achieve mastery.

Wet felting from dog wool is done using a soap solution, and always warm

Instructions:

An oilcloth is spread on the surface of the table.
Gauze is placed.
It is necessary to lay the base, then the background and ornament of the future drawing.
The threads need to be laid out in crosses and stripes. In this case, you should ensure that there are no holes in the canvas, and that the material is laid perpendicularly. The thickness of the entire canvas should be perfectly even.

After the process of laying out the material is completed and compliance with the intended scheme is checked, you need to sprinkle it with water. Next, the canvas is covered with nylon material and coated with a soap solution. Excess liquid is removed with a napkin. Next, you need to gradually and not sharply rub the canvas by hand, now the workpiece with plastic wrap. Thus, the material gradually falls down and a single canvas with a pattern, for example, a dog, is obtained.

Dry felting a dog: stages

A dog using the dry felting technique is an equally simple option for beginners. To complete the work, you will need to prepare unspun wool, as well as needles that have special notches.

The peculiarity of dry felting is the tangling of wool fibers with each other, due to which they are gradually transformed into felt.

This felting is carried out by using a needle with a triangular or star-shaped cross-section. After preparing the wool, corners and a piece of foam rubber, you can proceed to practice. The material is placed on foam rubber and begins to tangle with needles. The base of the crafts can be made of padding polyester, which is covered with wool on top.

Dry felting allows you to create original souvenirs in the form of animals and other products according to your preference

Nuances:

When working with a needle, you need to be as careful as possible so as not to get hurt or break the tip.
The needle should be held perpendicular to the foam.
In the process of forming any felt crafts, the thickest needle is initially taken, which is gradually replaced by thinner ones.

If there are flaws on the item, they are smoothed out by using an additional, but small amount of sulfur.

Master class on felting a dog from wool

To make a dog felting, you will need wool, a needle, a sponge, scissors, glue, and a toy spout. In this case, a spaniel dog will be made. Felting starts from the head. Take white wool to felt the ball. Next, the oblong part falls down, so that on one side it remains intact.

Due to the unused end, the body and head are connected. The entire head is worked out with a needle to eliminate the appearance of joints. If necessary, you can add some wool. Felting is carried out as tightly as possible. The line of the cheeks and mouth is outlined. The nose does not need to be marked as it will be glued.

The dog's body should bend slightly as it will be in a sitting position. To felt the hind legs, you first need to make a ball, and then give it a flattened appearance. The balls are tried on the body to see if they are the right size. Both parts are prepared and pressed onto the body. Thus, 2 hind legs are made.

By correctly performing all the stages of the master class on felting a dog from wool, you will get a wonderful product

Similarly, you need to make 2 front legs and place them on the body. For making a ponytail? Black wool is suitable. Likewise, the top part is left uncovered to attach the tail to the dog's body. Black wool will also be needed for the ears, which should have a teardrop shape. They are installed on the dog's head. The back surface of the head is decorated with black wool.

The eyes are formed with exactly the same material, and the forehead should remain white. The nose is installed in its rightful place using transparent glue. For eyebrows, brown wool is suitable. Don't forget about the pupils of the eyes. Next, to complete the work, you need to go over the entire surface of the product with a needle to eliminate hairs and defects. If necessary? Too long and unnecessary hairs are cut off with scissors.

Felting a dog from wool (video)

Such creativity can attract both children and their parents, as it develops motor skills, logical thinking and spatial perception. Creating original toys with your own hands? can I use them? both for home decoration and as gifts for loved ones.

Many of us have dogs that we brush from time to time. Those who do not throw away combed dog hair are doing more than wisely. You can use it to make a dog hair belt with your own hands.

It's not difficult at all and quite fast. Felting one product takes about an hour with all the preparatory steps. After drying, all that remains is to sew the fabric and attach the fasteners.

However, it should be noted that only hair that has been combed from a dog will mat well. The sheared one cannot be felted, no matter how hard you try.

Our task is to obtain a very dense felt blank, to which you can sew ribbons or attach fasteners for ease of use.

We will now tell you how to felt a dog hair belt with your own hands with a photo and description of the felting process based on personal experience.

What are the benefits of dog hair?

Dog hair has a healing effect on the human body. Both our grandfathers and our grandfathers’ grandfathers knew about this. It is used to treat radiculitis, osteochondrosis, arthrosis and arthritis, and various muscle pains. Colds and kidney diseases, pain in the knees and wrists can also be treated with dog hair.

A felt bandage made from dog hair soaked in a saline solution, dries on the body, helps get rid of bronchitis cough, relieves inflammation in the cervical region, knees and elbows.

The more prickly the belt or bandage is, the more effective its therapeutic effect. Of all the products, a belt made of dog hair is the most famous and popular means of getting rid of all kinds of pain in the back, knees, and neck.

In addition, combed dog hair can be spun and knitted into socks, mittens, sweaters and vests. Even a small amount of dog hair can be used to felt or (will help get rid of headaches) knee pads and cuffs for wrists and ankles. Needless to say, everything that you can make with your own hands from dog hair is extremely useful. Throwing away combed dog hair is a sin.

On a note

Felted dog insoles perfectly warm your feet and prevent them from sweating. If you put such insoles in house slippers and walk barefoot in them, then calluses on the soles will go away quite quickly. Even very old ones.

How to quickly and easily felt dog hair

First, prepare everything you might need:

combed dog hair (we had more than half a store bag)
film (best of all, bubble wrap, which is used for packaging electronics), but if this is not available, you can take a mosquito net or, as in our case, plastic vegetable packaging from the supermarket;
a bowl for hot soapy water;
laundry soap (only the simplest one will do, without any fragrances or softening additives);
a grater on which this soap will need to be cut;
a wooden rolling pin for dough or any wooden stick (even a shovel handle, only shortened);
spray bottle for spraying.

Wet felting

First, take a piece of film with a margin of approximately 15 cm on each side of the expected belt size. This is necessary so that you can tuck the edges of the dog hair “layer cake” (this will create a smoother rectangular shape, and you will not need to cut off precious pieces of the felt mat).

Now we take the dog’s hair itself and begin to “ruffle” it. We will do this with our hands, but carefully. How to do it? Rinse and gut a small ball of dog hair until fine and fluffy.

With such scraps we lay out the entire first layer of the workpiece in one direction. We put our disheveled scraps so that they overlap one another. This way we avoid bald spots and voids in the rug.

The next step is to apply a second layer, but in the opposite direction. We do not allow omissions and do not forget about overlaps. So we lay at least 4 layers. If it is possible and there is a lot of raw material available, more layers are possible.

The felt will be denser and stronger. The result was a fluffy “layer cake” of scraps of dog hair stacked one on top of the other.

Now we need to thoroughly moisten all this with hot soapy water. Why hot? Hot water straightens the hairs, and the soap solution helps them adhere to each other into a dense mass.

Attention

This is the most crucial moment. Wetting from a spray bottle is not quick, but it is reliable. Pieces of wool will not move anywhere, voids or lumps will not form. But you need to take into account that dog hair doesn’t get wet well, so you can water it by hand, trying not to knock a single piece out of its place.

When everything is properly wet and the workpiece has become twice as thin as our fluffy original rug, you can pour a bolder soap solution. But not in a stream or stream. Its density and durability will depend on how well our entire future belt made of dog hair gets wet.

In our case, the mesh allowed soapy water to spill through the top. On the one hand, this is good and convenient, on the other hand, bubble wrap, although it prevents the wool from getting wet, makes it possible to felt the wool very tightly. You have to remove the top film and very carefully wet the unprotected rug.

Tuck the edges of the bottom film inward (we had a rather stiff mesh, so there were problems with tucking). Now you can cover the wet and settled mat with a second film or mesh. We carefully but very tightly roll the resulting film pancake onto a rolling pin (it is most convenient for our purpose).

To prevent this whole structure from unwinding and falling apart during the process of felting wool, we will secure our “sausage” with a rope in a spiral or with hair elastic bands along the entire length. We will hit and roll this whole thing, so we need reliable fixation.

Since we are making a dog hair belt with our own hands, we cannot allow valuable raw materials to go to waste. We tie it tightly, without tightening it, so that the whole structure can be pounded without fear and, at the same time, without tearing the wet felt. We want to end up with a belt that is tight, durable and free of torn holes.

Well, now it’s time for the mechanical part of the work. We take a rolling pin with a workpiece wound around it and begin to squeeze it with our hands, roll it and tap it on all sides on the table or, as in our case, on a bed of wooden balls. If it’s not there, it doesn’t matter - on a flat surface, preferably wooden, it turns out no worse. So we roll and knock for 15-20 minutes.

Attention

We tap on all sides more than we roll. This way there is less risk of deforming the workpiece.

Then we carefully unwind and see what we got. If bald spots appear or something has moved, we correct it. Place scraps of wool on the voids and moisten them generously with more soapy water.

We wrap the bottom film together with the edges of the wet workpiece to make a product of the correct shape, again lay the film on top and roll everything back onto the rolling pin. We knead, tap and roll for another 20 minutes, or even half an hour.

The density of the felt, and, consequently, the quality of the future dog hair belt, which we are now making with our own hands, will depend on how long and how diligently you subject the workpiece to mechanical stress.

Now you can rinse the “sausage” under running water. We do this without unwinding or unfolding the workpiece.

Next, you need to untie everything, lay out the resulting felt mat on a flat surface, remove the top film and wash it again with soapy water. If you did everything as it should, the resulting thick felt mat can even be carefully rinsed.

Drying the felt blank

Dry it flat on a towel, just as we usually dry knitted items. You cannot throw it on a rope or attach it to a battery. Felt is easily deformed, and you will end up with a crooked, unusable product.

On a note

We dry it only well, and use only natural drying conditions: in the air or in the sun.

The most important part of the dog hair belt, when dry, will be a dense mat, approximately the width of the back or slightly longer.

Making a belt from dog hair - fabric, fasteners

Note that a belt made of dog hair works best when it is put on a naked body with the felted side to the skin. The fabric is needed only so that the belt will serve us longer and fit more comfortably on the figure.

It is best to cut out a shape that is comfortable for the back from our blank, cover one side with fabric for strength and sew on fasteners. Practice shows that it is most convenient for a belt made of dog hair, felted with your own hands, to have a Velcro fastener. They are the easiest to make and they will not be overly bulky, which means they will not interfere with walking in a medical belt.

There is no need to throw away the leftovers. They can be sewn onto a strip of fabric and used as a therapeutic bandage for any sore spot. You just need to secure it so that it stays in place. You can make a knee pad or a narrow headband. Figure out how to put the leftovers to good use.

It will take very little time to make a belt made of dog hair with your own hands, but you will not need to spend money on a purchased belt, which, moreover, is neither dense nor thick. As a rule, this is an almost translucent thin layer: short-lived and ineffective. May dog belt sellers forgive me!

It was this fact that made me look for my own answer to the question of how to felt a dog hair belt with my own hands. Moreover, there were always dogs living in the house and a lot of hair had accumulated from them.

Everyone is happy with the result. Now three family members have their own back treatment belts. All that remains is to decide who will take a belt from, and who will get a belt from the wool of Zlata or Risa.

Let's make the dog look like a spaniel.
We begin to felt the dog from the head.
We make a ball from white wool.

After this, we need to felt this oblong shape.

At the end we leave the wool untouched. We will use it to attach the part to the head.
We roll this part onto the ball.

We work through the entire head with a needle so that the joints are not visible. If necessary, add a little white wool to hide the joints. You need to felt it tightly.

We outline the cheeks and the line of the mouth. We don’t outline the nose; we’ll glue it on ready-made.

For now, we put the head aside and move on to the body.
The dog's body should be slightly curved.

After all, the dog will sit.

Where the neck is, we leave the wool unfelted.
Now we move on to felting the hind legs.
First we roll the ball. And we need to flatten it slightly.

We try on the ball to the body so as not to make the foot too big or small.

We felt a piece similar to the one we felted for the muzzle.

And we roll it onto the ball as shown in the photo.

This is what the back leg looks like.

We roll it over the dog's body.

Similar to the second case.

Now we make a sausage from white wool. And we make the front leg.
Poke with a needle to get a bend at the bottom.

We pin the paw to the body.

Let's move on to the next detail. The tail will be felted from black wool.
We leave the wool unfelted at the top.

We roll the tail to the body. And use unfelted wool to paint the back of the dog.

Next we make ears from black wool. They should be teardrop-shaped.

We roll them to the dog's head.

We paint the back of the head with black wool.

And in front we also add black fur in place of the eyes, leaving the forehead white.

We bring the head to the body and shape the muzzle.
Glue the nose with transparent glue. We make eyebrows and eyes from brown wool. You also need to make pupils in the middle of the eyes. We make them from a small piece of black wool. Once again we go over the entire toy with a needle and cut off the protruding hairs with scissors.

Oh, these husky! Probably, most of the world's inhabitants consider these dogs to be the cutest creatures. How can I resist and not do it? DIY husky toy? I think that dry felting technique fits this purpose perfectly.

So let's get started. To begin with, as usual, I will list the materials that we will need for felting.

Materials and tools for felting.

Felting wool: dark grey, black and white. I used Australian merino.
Sponge or special brush for felting.
Needles for felting: triangular medium needle (No. 38) for forming parts, “star” No. 40, twisted triangular No. 40, medium “crown” needle and reverse needle for adding fluffiness to the toy.
Self-hardening clay (preferably white) for the eyes. Paints for coloring eyes. I used watercolors.
Varnish. You can use any, but it is desirable that the varnish be glossy. We will use it to cover the eyes, and with shiny eyes the toy always looks prettier. I used acrylic varnish.
A small comb and scissors to bring the toy into proper shape after processing with a reverse needle.

My husky turned out to be small: about 10-12 cm in height. So I immediately started felting it from white wool, without using a sliver (or combed tape). If you are planning to make a large toy, then I recommend first felting the parts from lower quality wool (or using padding polyester, tightening it with threads and thereby giving it the required shape). This will save you a lot of money :)

We start by shaping a bunch of white wool into a ball shape on a sponge. First we work with a triangular middle needle, then with a “crown”. In general, the “crown” needle, in my opinion, is simply irreplaceable in felting. It allows you to properly process the surface of the part without creating a void inside, as sometimes happens when working with a very thick needle.

This ball is the future head.

Now let's make the muzzle. We fold the end of the muzzle on which the nose is located, and leave tufts of wool at the opposite end. For them we will roll the muzzle to the husky's head.

We roll the muzzle into the head. We use a thin needle No. 40 for this purpose.

We outline the contours of the nose and smile. I did it with a crown.

Let's start felting the body. For this we take a larger bunch of white wool. Give it the shape of a dog's body. First, as usual, we work on a sponge. Then, when the shape is already more or less dense, you can felt, holding the part in your hands. The sequence of using needles: we start felting with a medium needle, then with a “crown” and end with a thin needle No. 40. We don’t felt the upper edge of the part, we will use it to roll the body to the head.

We bring the body to the head:

Now let's start felting the hind legs. Take two identical tufts of wool. It is advisable to work on paired parts in parallel from the very beginning, because it is then difficult to judge from the felted part how much wool needs to be taken at first.

Using a sponge, we begin to give the tuft of wool the required shape:

On one side we fold the bunch a little more. This will be the place where the leg is attached to the dog’s body.

Periodically we apply the leg to the body and try it on.

As mentioned above, we will need two such parts:

Now you need to make the lower part of the paws (the one with the toes). To do this, take an oblong tuft of wool and use a sponge to give it the shape of a paw.

We make two parts, do not touch one side of each part - we will use it to roll the foot onto the previously felted ball.

We wrap the non-felt end around the ball (the back of the leg) and roll the foot. To speed up the process, you can use not one, but several needles.

This is what we should get:

We attach the legs to the puppy's body. To do this, we pierce the foot through several times.

We roll both legs to the body. As you can see in the photo, at this stage the border of the body and legs is very noticeable, that is, you can see where the leg is felted.

Let's try to smooth out this border. Take a small bunch of white wool, tangle it slightly in your hands, and shape it into a cloud.

Now we roll this cloud onto the junction of the paw and body, thereby smoothing out the border.

Here's what we got:

And a side view:

Let's start felting the front legs of the husky.

We take two identical bundles of wool, use a middle needle or a “crown” to fold one of the ends of each bundle. We work with the paws in parallel.

Now we begin to form the foot. We slightly bend the part and repeatedly poke it with a needle at the bend.

We should have two parts:

We bring the front legs to the body. It is better to first find a position in which the puppy sits and does not fall over.

Here's what happens:

Let's start coloring. The fun begins :)

To begin, we fill the nose with rough wool. I usually first take a fiber of wool and roll it along the contour of the spout, and then fill the void inside with a tuft of wool.

We roll the dog with gray wool in those places where it is necessary. It is better to have a photograph of a husky in front of your eyes during this process. We roll the wool with a thin needle. I chose dark gray wool. The point is that we will “fluff” the toy with a reverse needle. The reverse needle pulls out individual hairs from the toy. We made the base from white wool, which means that after processing with a reverse needle, the toy will become lighter.

The toy is already becoming like a husky :)

And the top view:

There is very little left.

Let's make a ponytail. Take a bunch of white wool and give it a cone shape. We fold the end of the bundle.

We wrap the tail with gray wool.

Using a sponge, roll the gray wool onto the white one and give the bun the shape of a ponytail. There is no need to felt the top end.

We roll the tail to the body. Again, experiment with the position of the ponytail. If you have slightly miscalculated the position of the paws and the husky is not sitting very confidently, the correct position of the tail will help correct this.

The tail is curled!

Now let's make the fingers. We will work with a “corona” needle.

p>I made the eyes from self-hardening clay. You can purchase ready-made eyes for toys or try making them yourself. We make “cakes” from clay and let them dry. Then use fine sandpaper or a nail file to remove any unevenness. Use a pencil to outline the pupils and iris. We paint the eyes with paints (first we apply the main tone - blue - then we draw the pupils and only after that, when the paint has dried, we draw the highlights). Cover the eyes with varnish.

While the eyes are drying, we will make indentations for the eyes on the husky's face. I do this with a needle number 38. Black wool can be used to slightly shade the line of the mouth.

Place a drop of Moment Crystal glue on the back of the eye and place it in the recesses.

Let's do the eyebrows. To do this, take a small bunch of white wool.

We roll this bunch over the eye. We work with a thin needle.

Using black wool we make stripes on the muzzle:

Now let's make the toy fluffy. To do this, we will use a reverse needle.

Elena did her best and captured the whole process in detail in photographs (there are more than a hundred of them). The work is not easy, time-consuming, NOT for a couple of hours, since to create this you need to make many parts from different colors of wool. But it's definitely worth it to show up in your home!

So, this is the dog you will end up with:

To create our Beagles - DIY dogs prepare:

Dog - symbol of 2018 made of wool master class:

First, you need to comb semi-fine wool for easier felting (recommendation: start any felting with semi-fine wool, as it is stiffer and holds its shape well, and then roll it on top with thin wool, which looks much neater and is easier to “felt out”).
The next step is to tear off three pieces of wool of different sizes (see photo below).
Make two balls - a large one (this is the future head), a little smaller (for the muzzle). Tear off small wool clouds and felt them.
Now fuse the two balls together, making a “cloud” along the seam line for a smooth transition.
Take the third piece of wool (the largest) and felt the body of our symbol of 2018. It should be slightly elongated and rounded on one side. Do not felt the other side - leave the edge open so that you can then felt the head in this place.
Roll over the cheeks, nose and mouth.
It will look something like this:
Lay your head down DIY dogs to the body with the open, non-felt side, first fluff it slightly, making a “collar”. Also roll the seam with a wool cloud.
It will turn out something like this:
And from the back like this:
And another front view for clarity:
You can roll the entire result with fine wool.
Now take approximately equal pieces of wool to make the hind legs.
Felt as shown in the photo:
And roll the paws to the body:
Add some wool to the transition line and to the hips:
If you wish, the legs (more precisely, their ends) can be modified (go through with a thin needle at the end). It is better to do this before the front paws fall down.
Next, we form sausages from two equal-sized pieces of wool. Roll along and twist continuously. Bend the ends slightly to form palms and fingers.
Finish the front paws so that they become firm and proportional, finally go through with a thin needle, if you wish, shape the toes.
Flatten your paws to your body wool dogs, and also make shoulders by adding wool. Sand with a fine needle.
We look, evaluate, add more wool where necessary.
On the head and chest you usually always need to add more, so look critically. The chest should stick out, and the paws in front should be on the sides of the chest.
Here's what they added on the cheeks, lower jaw and face:
At the same time, we sand so that the face remains smooth after adding wool.
Let's start making the spout. Felt a little black wool very gently and carefully into the desired area. Start with the outline, then move to the middle.
Draw out the nostrils in the nose, use a photo of a real dog to do this.
The photo shows a little where the holes are located.
27. Make indentations for our eyes symbol of 2018 made of wool.28. Do you like the proportions? Then start “coloring” Beagles with colored wool. In this case, a photo of a live Beagle will not hurt, but will only help you! First, tear the wool into small pieces to make it easier to straighten later. 29. The spots can be symmetrical or not, depending on what photo you have.
30. Mine has a black spot on its back:
31. Lightly roll white fine wool over the white areas for evenness:

Like this DIY dog made of wool it turns out:

32. And iron a little more without adding wool:
33. Time to match our eyes dog made of wool. You can use different eyes - for example, handmade glass or convex buttons coated with varnish, or you can even make them yourself from plastic and paint them... As you please. You can sew it with a large needle or glue it with glue.
34. Sewing is simple: stick the needle in the place of the future ear, bring it out near the eye, grab a button or eye and stick it into the same hole, bringing the needle out in the same place where you stuck it (the place of the future ear); Tie the two ends tightly and hide the threads in the body.
35. Make eyelids and eyebrows for our Beagle. To do this, take two approximately identical pieces of eyelid wool and start felting in the middle.

Fold future eyelids in half.
Fold the eyelids more tightly only on one side, the other you will roll to the face around the eye.
Seal the edge of the eyelid.
36. Roll your eyelids to your face.

If you wish, you can add white under the eye - the white of the eye. Use a thin needle and wool, do everything carefully.
37. Make eyebrows in the same way as eyelids, giving them the desired shape. See photo.
38. Now it's time for the ponytail. First make a sausage from a small piece of wool. Twist the tail for uniformity as you felt.
Leave the edge for attaching to the body unfelted.
Roll part of the tail with black wool - color it, then straighten it with a thin needle.

39. Open the unfelted end of the ponytail and press it to the body with a rough needle.
A little more black wool for leveling.

40. Hurray, only the ears remain! Or rather, there are not enough of them! Take two similar sized pieces of wool and start felting the ears. For convenience, take a felting brush and several needles at once, fastened together with an elastic band (medium needles, triangular or “star” No. 36).
Leave one edge unmatted to attach to the head.
41. Finish the edges, rounding the ear, giving it shape. We do not touch the unfelt edge!!!
42. When the ears have thickened, you can continue felting on a special sponge.
You can also “paint” the center of the ear black. Try to smooth out the borders of colors.
Sand the eyelet with a fine needle.
43. Try the ears on the dog’s head:

And go ahead if you like it!
First inside (take some wool and stretch it into a cloud).
Smooth out all the joints:
And the outside:
Go over the entire surface of the toy, sand where necessary. 44. Tint the hollows of the mouth with dry pastel paints (rub the pastel on sandpaper in advance). And also tint around the nose: 45. You can attach more eyelashes (bend the eyelid, drip glue - for example Moment gel, and secure the eyelashes).
46. For the antennae, use monofilament: insert a needle, pull it out on the other side, secure with back-and-forth stitches. So a few antennae. 47. For the “wet nose” effect, you can coat it with varnish or impregnate it with Selvitose (similar to starch), and only then cover it with glossy acrylic varnish (you can buy it at an art salon).

Well, and finally - you can fluff up the puppy using a reverse needle!))))
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